Rooting for Horseradish

Horseradish was acclaimed as an aphrodisiac by the ancient Greeks claims one source. The same source advices that its use is 3,000 years old and was known to the Egyptians as far back as 1,500 B.C. Since neither civilization survived this is hardly reassuring.

“We are not needed for horseradish by anyone” is a common Russian expression, meaning not wanted, quoted in last month’s edition of National Geographic magazine. In the garden, it may also become a pernicious weed. All of which is doubtlessly hard to swallow for the National Horseradish Information Council of the United States. They advise the zestful root is the secret ingredient of cocktail sauce, seafood, dip, roast beef, salmon, shrimp and potato recipes. In mounting enthusiasm, they proclaim July as Horseradish Month. (It is also, for the record, Berry Month, Blueberry Month, California Wild King Salmon Month, National Baked Beans Month, National Hot Dog Month and National Ice Cream Month for those a little peckish.) Horseradish, Armoracia rusticana, is believed to have originated in southeastern Europe and western Asia. A member of the mustard family (Cruciferae), it is a hardy perennial 60 centimetres to 90 centimetres tall with large, glossy, dark green leaves 30 centimetres or so long. The small but pleasantly scented white flowers rarely set viable seed so it is commonly propagated through root cuttings. However, seed is offered by some reputable online retailers as well as plants.

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The roots are harvested in late fall, since chillier weather is believed to increase the flavour as with several other crops such as parsnips, leeks and Brussels sprouts. The entire plants are forked out of the ground and the main taproot set aside for culinary use. The small side roots, about as thick as a pencil, are removed and become cuttings for next season’s crop. These are usually flat on the end to go uppermost, diagonally for the bottom, measuring about 30 centimetres long. They are laid on the sloping side of a trench dug about the same depth or slightly deeper. Since the horseradish taproot, long and thick, is to be later lift intact and exceptionally deep medium loam is essential, although sandy soils are also suitable if bolstered with organic matter. If your garden is a clay one you are out of luck. North American commercial production is centred on Collinsville, Illinois, where the rich river loams on the east bank of the Mississippi offer perfect growing conditions. The area grows 60 percent of the world’s supply. Every May, the International Horseradish Festival is held featuring a root toss, horseradish eating, recipe contests and other activities. There will be enough foliage by that time in the home garden to harvest for as a cooked vegetable or even, when young and tender, added to a salad. This found particular favour in Medieval Germany where to this day they still brew horseradish schnapps and some also drop a small amount in their beer – which seems a terrible waste of two good things. Couples in the Fenlands of eastern England determined the sex of their unborn child with horseradish roots, according to Roy Vickers: A Dictionary of Plant Lore (1995). They slept with a piece of horseradish under each of their pillows. If the husband’s horseradish turned black before his wife’s, then the expected child would be a boy, and vice-versa. More recently in Japan, a smoke alarm was developed at Shiga University of Medical Science Hospital to spray horseradish extract. The pungent aroma of horseradish wakes people from the deepest sleep – especially if they are hearing impaired, explained New Scientist. The device could be launched within two years, said the magazine. That was back in March 2008. Nothing has been heard of it since. In the U.S. an estimated 21 million pounds of roots are ground and processed annually to produce 6 million gallons of sauce, according to the National Horseradish Information Council, which strangely is located in Atlanta, Georgia, and not Collinsville, Illinois. The freshly harvested roots are grated and mixed with vinegar to preserve them for later use. Do not allow this to come into contact with the family silverware though – horseradish will tarnish it. Horseradish will not flourish in the tropics or subtropics. But there is a horseradish tree, Moringa oleifera, native from Arabia through India. Now widely planted in both the Old and New World tropics, the roots and pods are used in cooking as a substitute for Armoracia rusticana. The seeds of the tree are pressed to yield ‘ben oil,’ valued for cosmetics – and lubricating fine instruments. But why is the herb designated ‘horseradish?’ In English usage, ‘horse’ indicates anything that is coarse or strong, for example horse chestnut, horse gentian, horsemint and horseweed. ‘Radish’ because the resemblance to the thick, long and white roots of the oriental radish.