Peppery in flavour, it was known to the Romans before true pepper arrived from India and to this day it may be known as
Pfefferkraut (‘pepper herb’) in German. Pliny mentioned savory. Virgil grew it for his bees. Hippocrates speaks of its medicinal qualities. Alas for Coles, other ancient herbalists proclaimed it more suited to curing colic, ‘expel winde,’ improve appetite, a poultice for sciatica, the juice for bad eyesight, and cure for deafness.
Perhaps more practically, in Germany and Switzerland it is also known as Bohnenkraut, bean herb, owing to its affinity for legume-based dishes. The celebrated
Richters Herb Catalogue also suggests it to be excellent in chilled vegetable juices and meatloaf. Used alone or in combination with other condiments, it makes an excellent flavouring for poultry seasoning, meats, soups, eggs, salads, and sauces, suggested Frederick Rosengarten (1973), adding that for garnishing it may be used as a refreshing substitute for parsley.
All these authorities likely refer summer savory,
Satureja hortensis, an annual herb native to the Mediterranean littoral. This is the savory herb of commerce with small white or pink flowers, growing to about 20cm and with a delicate flavour. In northern gardens, the appropriately named winter savory,
S. montana, is often preferred for its perennial nature. An evergreen dwarf shrub just 20cm tall, it produces white or pale violet blooms and is believed to have originated in southern Europe. It has a strong, somewhat pungent flavour that lends itself to preparations cooked over an extended time, as for example in the traditional poultry dressing of winter savory, rice and parsley. Richters suggests it as an attractive low bush for borders and edgings.
Richters also offers
Satureja hortensis ‘’Midget’ which they say is an ‘improved uniform selection.’ Also available in seed for are two intriguing species of winter savory. Winter carpet savory S. montana illyrica from Europe’s Carpathian Mountains in the Balkans lends itself as an ornamental groundcover or edging for sunny areas. Winter lemon savory,
S montana citriodora has a surprisingly realistic lemon scent, quite unlike that claimed for so many other ‘lemon’ herbs. Available as plants only rather than seed, creeping savory,
S. # (
S. repandra) is another groundcover candidate coming from further east, in Iran, Turkey and the Caucasus.
Grow all on light, well-drained soil rich in organic matter in full sun. Winter savory and its sections will suffer on heavy, clay soils with poor drainage, likely not living up to its common name. The seed can be sown as early as late April. As with many of the wide-ranging Labiatae family utilized as herbs, pluck shoots regularly before they flower for the best flavour.
