In what must be something of an understatement, the Roger Tory Peterson Guide to Birds lists the pigeon, Columba livia, as being "familiar to city dwellers." It is, this invaluable book notes, of "old world origin" but "worldwide in domestication."
The designation 'domestication' may puzzle those North Americans who scorn them as 'flying rats.' However, until a short while ago pigeon was an important food item in northwest Europe. Samuel Pepys, in his celebrated Diary for 8 February 1660, wrote: "A little practice on my flageolet, and afterwards walking in my yard to see my stock of pigeons, which begin now with spring to breed very fast."
Pepys fails to record the size of his flock. Elsewhere, some numbered in the hundreds, sheltered and encouraged to breed year-round in substantial brick or stone pigeon houses. Many of these have failed to withstand the ravages of time. Others have been reborn as something more elegant – and expensive. As recently as this past October, one such came on the market in the attractive village of Findon near Arundel in the South Downs, four miles north of the seaside resort of Worthing on the English Channel. It has been described The Mail on Sunday:
A former 18th century pigeon house goes on sale for £1.85 million after being converted into a majestic six-bedroom home in Findon, West Sussex. It comes with its own covered swimming pool, hot tub, wine cellar, workshop and two garages for a large car collection – all on 3.2 acres of land.
Even North America, following the demise of passenger pigeons, welcomed replacements from the Old World. In her The New World's Fair Cookbook and Housekeeper's Companion (Toronto 1891), Mrs. M. E. Porter advised:
"Pigeons lose their flavour by being kept more than a day after they are killed. They may be prepared and roasted or broiled the same way as chickens; they will require from 20 to 30 minutes' cooking. Make a gravy of the giblets, season it with pepper and salt and add a little flour and butter."
Gallic gourmet tastes were different. That font of food and its preparation, Larousse Gastronomique (1938), explains that, "In French culinary language the word pigeon rarely figures on the menu. The word Pigeonneau (squab) is used instead. This applies to a very young and really tender bird, which can be prepared in many different ways." They certainly are numerous. With élan and esprit, Larousse lists more than two dozen preparations ranging from Pigeonneau en compote and Pigeonneau à la crapaudine to Pigeonneau étuvé au sang and Pigeonneau villeroi.
Elsewhere, pigeon is not infrequently on the menus of the world. Throughout the Middle East and into sub-Sahara Africa small dovecots are to be found in city and country alike, housing a few birds. The scent of roasting pigeon pervaded the Arab quarter of Alexandria, observed Lawrence Durrell.
Of course, not everyone has been enthralled with pigeons in any shape or form. Humourist Robert Benchley hated them, striking out in his writings. "But as far as pigeons go, I am through," he wrote. "It is a war to the death and I have a horrible feeling that the pigeons are going to win." Surprisingly, he never tried getting is own back by eating one . . .
Wes Porter is a horticultural consultant and writer based in Toronto. Wes has over 40 years of experience in both temperate and tropical horticulture from three continents.
