Fences, it is said, make good neighbours but Dean Fosdick suggests considering a hedge if you're in need of a fence. Writing in The Washington Post, he notes that, when managed properly, hedges cost less and outlast wooden fences. But hedges require regular watering, weeding, fertilizing and, unless informal, shaping. Other than the ubiquitous chain-link fence, apparently almost indestructible, fences made of treated wood will need maintenance every few years. Even then they will succumb while living barriers continue to flourish. Nevertheless, as Robert Frost once advised: "Don't ever take a fence down until you know why it was put up."
Many are the choices when it comes to choosing hedge plants
The pair of classic errors often made when installing a new hedge are lack of preparation and improper spacing. Create a good base by excavating a trench eighteen inches deep and the same width. Spread composted manure and bone meal fertilizer over the base and fork in before backfilling with six inches of triple mix.
Now for the spacing. Unless installing bare-root stock--which will take longer to form a hedge--containerized plants will require positioned at 12- to 24-inch centres dependent upon plant size. In general, deciduous species require lesser spacing than most evergreens. Backfill again with triple mix and stamp down the soil firmly, ensuring the base of the plants are up to six inches above grade to allow for soil settling. Water as required, but do not fertilize the first season.
Natural or informal hedges are simply left to grow. Formal hedges can be trimmed when they reach slightly above their required height. Be aware that most municipalities have bylaws covering the maximum height permitted. This is often no more than five or six feet in back gardens, and as low as three feet in the front to avoid screening oncoming vehicular traffic. Similar legislation may apply to fences. In any event, "Love your neighbour as yourself, but don't take the fence down," suggested Carl Sandberg. There is, after all, a phrase about being on the "wrong side of the fence."
Many are the choices when it comes to choosing hedge plants. A few of the more popular and easily available are listed here:
Deciduous:
Japanese Barberry -- Berberis thunbergii
Cornelian Cherry -- Cornus mas
Cotoneaster -- Cotoneaster lucidus--fall colour
Burning Bush -- Euonymus alata 'Compacta'
European Fly Honeysuckle -- Lonicera xylosteum -- extremely hardy
Amur Maple -- Acer ginnala
Hedge Maple -- Acer campestre
Amur Privet -- Ligustrum amurense
Common Privet -- Ligustrum vulgare--much better selections
Flowering Quince -- Chaenomles speciosa
'Snowmound' Spirea -- Spirea nipponica 'Snowmound'
Evergreen:
Boxwood -- Buxus microphylla (hardy), B. sempervirens
Cedar -- Thuja occidentalis
Canada Hemlock -- Tsuga canadensis
Juniper -- Juniperus chinesis 'Mountbatten'
Eastern White Pine -- Pinus strobus
White Spruce -- Picea glauca
Yew -- Taxus cuspidata
Wes Porter is a horticultural consultant and writer based in Toronto. Wes has over 40 years of experience in both temperate and tropical horticulture from three continents.
Fences, it is said, make good neighbours but Dean Fosdick suggests considering a hedge if you're in need of a fence. Writing in The Washington Post, he notes that, when managed properly, hedges cost less and outlast wooden fences. But hedges require regular watering, weeding, fertilizing and, unless informal, shaping. Other than the ubiquitous chain-link fence, apparently almost indestructible, fences made of treated wood will need maintenance every few years. Even then they will succumb while living barriers continue to flourish. Nevertheless, as Robert Frost once advised: "Don't ever take a fence down until you know why it was put up."
