The latest luxury ingredient in these decadent times is what is euphemistically known to the hedonistic Euros as ‘white caviar.’ Or, if you must know, eggs of the North African Great Grey Snail, a domesticated form of Cornu aspersum.
Raised by a small but growing number of helioculturists or snail farmers in France and Spain, a single snail lays about 100 eggs weighing about three grams twice a year. These are also known as ‘Pearls of Aphrodite’ for their supposed aphrodisiac quality. Rich Romans, Egyptians and Greeks once positively doted on them but strangely despite their supposed encouragement to ancient love life, these civilizations no longer flourish.
According to Harriet Alexander writing in The Sunday Telegraph last month, a kilo of the Cornu eggs retails for £1,600. She says that they taste “slightly earthy” and suggests marinating them in herbs. Helioculturist Sylvie Pierru, of Soisson 60 miles northeast of Paris, says, “When people, ask what it tastes like, I say it is like walking through undergrowth after rain. It is woody with notes of mushroom and oak leaves.”
Madame Pierru should know. Her husband, Dominque Pierru, is claimed to be the genius behind snail caviar. He spent three years perfecting his invention, which first hit the market in 2007. Sold in 50 gram jars, De Jaeger caviar is said to be best served on toast or sage leaf, accompanied by champagne.
Wes Porter is a horticultural consultant and writer based in Toronto. Wes has over 40 years of experience in both temperate and tropical horticulture from three continents.
