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How to Make True Ragù

The Secrets to Slow-Simmering Sauce


By Guest Column ——--October 12, 2011

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imageFlavor packed from slow simmering, these authentic Italian meat sauces make perfect fall fare. Plus, you can freeze the sauce for future good eating. Much better than opening a jar, don't you think? Sicilian Pork & Sausage Ragù Classic Bolognese Ragù Abruzzese Lamb Ragù

Pasta with Sicilian Pork and Sausage Ragù

by Domenica Marchetti When Italian-Americans talk about “Sunday sauce” or “gravy,” they mean this classic southern Italian ragù. Tomatoes are prominent, and the sauce’s flavor is brightened by the fennel in the sausages. Serves 8-12 Yields about 2 quarts

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt) Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (2 cups) 1 cup dry red wine, such as Sicilian Nero d’Avola 3 cups strained tomatoes or tomato purée 3 dried bay leaves 1/2 lb. sweet Italian pork sausage (3 links) 2 lb. short, sturdy pasta, such as penne, rigatoni, or cavatappi Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving More...

Fettucine with Ragu alla Bolognese

by Domenica Marchetti In historically wealthy Emilia-Romagna, ragù is made from a combination of ground meats—beef, veal, and pork—and enriched with milk and cream. Ragù alla Bolognese, which originated in Bologna, in the heart of the region, is a perfectly delicious example. In this version, mortadella, a smoked beef and pork sausage, brings even more rich flavor to the pot. Serves 4 to 6 Yields about 1 quart of ragu 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 2 medium carrots, finely chopped 2 medium celery stalks, finely chopped 2 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 1 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 lb. ground beef 1/2 lb. ground pork 1/2 lb. ground veal 1 cup dry white wine, such as Soave Classico Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Kosher or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cup whole milk 3 Tbs. tomato paste 1-1/2 cups lower-salt beef broth 1/2 cup heavy cream 3 oz. thinly sliced mortadella, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips (1/2 cup) 1 lb. regular or spinach fettucine Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional) More...

Spaghetti with Abruzzese Lamb Ragu

by Domenica Marchetti Lamb ragù is a specialty of Abruzzo where farmers have raised sheep for centuries, letting them graze in mountain pastures during the spring and summer, and herding them south to the milder climate of Puglia for the winter. The Abruzzesi love adding chile pepper—fresh, dried, or preserved in oil—to their ragùs, and some is always set out for passing at the table. This ragù is traditionally served with maccheroni alla chitarra, a squarecut noodle similar to thick spaghetti. Serves 6 to 8 Yields about 1-1/2 quarts 2 Tbs. vegetable oil 2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg of lamb, cut into 6 or 8 pieces Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium carrot, finely chopped 1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped 1 small red onion, finely chopped 1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed 1 Tbs. minced fresh herbs, such as rosemary and sage 1/2 cup dry red or white wine, such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo or Orvieto 6 cups canned diced tomatoes, with their juice 1 1/2 lb. thick spaghetti or maccheroni alla chitarra Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano shavings for serving (optional) Minced fresh hot chile or crushed red pepper flakes, for serving Tip: You can make this sauce with either red or white wine; consider using red during the colder months for a heartier flavor. More...

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