
Fowl Play
by Bruce Aidells
Sometimes the parts are better than the whole. Take turkey. It’s not that a perfectly roasted bird isn’t delicious, but when you look beyond the expected, fall’s favorite fowl becomes an even more exciting and versatile proposition. Broken down into thighs, drumsticks, and breast, each of these cuts—which are all easily found in grocery stores—can be prepared in clever new ways. Here, the thigh is stuffed with sausage and porcini, the breast is rubbed with an herb paste and topped with pancetta, and the drumstick meat is pulled off the bone and added to a spicy mole sauce. The big bird had better watch its back this year.
Roasted Turkey Breast, Porchetta Style
Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole
Turkey Thighs Stuffed with Porcini, Sausage, and Artichoke Hearts
Roasted Turkey Breast, Porchetta Style
by Bruce Aidells
This centerpiece dish starts with a boned whole turkey breast (do this yourself or ask the butcher to do it for you) or two boneless breast halves. It’s rubbed with a spice paste and topped with pancetta for a clever take on porchetta, a traditional Italian preparation of pork wrapped in strips of pork belly or pancetta.Serves seven to nine.
Ingredients:
1 tsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. fennel seeds
1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary
2 tsp. chopped fresh sage
3 medium cloves garlic
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbs. olive oil
1 whole skin-on turkey breast (5 to 7 lb.), boned or 2 boneless skin-on turkey breast halves (2 to 3 lb. each)
Eight 1/8-inch-thick pancetta slices, unrolled into strips, or 8 strips thick-cut bacon
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Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole
by Bruce Aidells
In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.Serves six to eight.
Ingredients:
For the poached drumsticks
6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed
2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves
6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic
6 whole allspice berries
4 fresh or dried bay leaves
2 tsp. cumin seeds
2 tsp. black peppercorns
2 tsp. coriander seeds
2 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. fennel or aniseed
One 4-inch cinnamon stick
4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)
For the mole sauce
3 ancho chiles
3 mulato chiles
3 guajillo chiles
1/3 cup raisins
3/4 cup whole toasted almonds
2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen
2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 medium cloves garlic
1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed
1/8 tsp. ground allspice
1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
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Turkey Thighs Stuffed with Porcini, Sausage, and Artichoke Hearts
by Bruce Aidells
Buy skin-on, bone-in thighs at the grocery store and remove the bones yourself—it’s as easy as boning chicken thighs.
Ingredients:
For the stuffing
3/4 oz. dried porcini mushrooms (about 1/2 cup)
1 Tbs. olive oil
1/4 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed (1 link)
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
2 tsp. minced garlic
1/2 cup coarsely chopped frozen artichoke hearts (no need to thaw)
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 cup coarse day-old breadcrumbs
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
For the thighs
3 turkey thighs (14 to 18 oz. each), boned
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
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